Words that start with B – Big, bold and brash – Thankfully Benin is none of these and you’ll find it amongst words like brilliant and beautiful and it’ll probably blow you away.

Benin
Capital: Porto Novo
Population: 7 million
Economy: GDP (PPP) – $13, 014 billion – 133rd; GDP Per Capita – $1468 – 165th
Human Development Index: .492 – 161st
Sporting Trivia: Benin are grouped with heavyweights Cote D’Ivoire, along with Rwanda and Burundi for qualifications for the 2012 African Cup of Nations.

>>> The Traveller Scene
Benin, known as the home of voodoo, but even more for us it was the home of the greatest selection of street food we’ve come across. Moving beyond our stomach, it‘s no mystery why Benin has such a good reputation. Whether it’s the strangely calm and chaotic scenes of Cotonou or because it’s home to some of West Africa’s best wildlife parks in the north – it’s not only shaped like a chicken drumstick but it’s a chicken drumstick with all the herbs and spices.

Entry Requirements: At the Benin border you can pick up a 2 day transit visa for 10 000CFA (15 Euro). Unless you’re just passing through the south this won’t be enough, you can get it extended by a month for another 12 000CFA in Cotonou if you want to see more of this amazing country.

Parlez-Vous Francais? Our 2nd last solely Francophone country, Benin, like Togo, has numerous English speakers if you’re in a bind. People appreciate the effort of speaking French and a few lines of the local tongue wouldn’t go astray if you’re staying more than a few days.

>>> @ Cotonou & Ouidah
Cotonou, yellow shirt wearing moto drivers are the most common site on the streets. They’re hectic but pound the pavement and you’ll find out what this place is all about. Just 40km away is the historic city of Ouidah which once was the point of departure for millions of slaves from the region once dubbed ‘Slave Coast‘. It also happens to be home to some of the most significant spots for voodoo traditions, including the Sacred Forest and the Temple of the Pythons.

How did we get there: We arrived via a shared taxi from Lome, which took us around 3 hours, including the border crossing. A shared taxi should set you back 4000CFA (6 Euro), you march across the border crossing yourself and meet the taxi on the other side. Your larger backpack will get checked by customs whilst you aren’t with the car, so make sure any valuables are with you.

Where did we stay: Maison de Passage De Allemands, its in the Haie Vive area, a few hundred metres from the roundabout. Throw in a few lines of German here if you can if you want to fit in, this place was set up to host German aid workers on the move. It’s secure, simple and decent enough for a few nights. This area is has a bit of buzz with plenty of good street bars and internet cafes within a few minutes walk. If you’re after some local beats to take with you, drop into the net cafe across the road in the restaurant, slip the local lad a few CFA and you’re away. Back to the accommodation – we got a room with 2 double beds for 10000CFA (15 Euro) a night.

Getting a feed: Amazing. Cotonou is perhaps street food heaven. Trust us – we’ve eaten our fair of food from the street. If you’ve been in other African cities where the street food is great, albeit with limited variety, then Cotonou is a chance to give your tastebuds a tickle. How about thick avocado with onion, sausage and sauce on a baguette (400CFA), or a plate full of vegetabes, spaghetti and sauce (300CFA)? For those playing at home, both are lucky to cost you a dollar.

Out on the Town: As good as Castel or Flag might be, it’s time to shift gears and get on board the Beer Beninoise. The local stuff is pretty tasty, and for 400CFA (75 Euro Cents) it’s hard to say no to a third and fouth. Cotonou has numerous street side bars, where plastic chairs get rolled out as the sun is coming down for a night of relaxed beers to the tune of some great African beats. It’s one of the best things around with music blaring a the best seats in the house for some top notch people watching with the Beninoise – good luck finding anyone walking past who doesn’t stop for a bit of a boogy as they pass by.

Difficulties: We made the journey out to Ouidah from Cotonou with a shared taxi for 650CFA (1 Euro) to learn more about the mysteries of voodoo. Clearly we’re no Holmes and Watson – it still remains a mystery despite a guided ‘Franglais’ tour through the Sacred Forest and having pythons drapped around our necks at the temple.

The Temple of Pythons is 1000CFA entry and 2000CFA for a camera. It’s overall an awkward experience. The Sacred Forest is 1000CFA, 2000CFA per camera and we gave our bloke 1000CFA for guiding us through. It would be incredible during the Voodoo festival and it’s only recently been opened up to outsiders.

As mentioned above Ouidah was also the scene where around 12 million slaves were sent away from their communities to all over the world, this important historical cite – the Rue des Esclaves – is worth checking out, along with the town’s museum to gain a better understanding of the impact of the slave trade.

Learn from us: Benin boasts some impressive wildlife in its northern national parks. Pendjari and Du W are something you should do if you have a bit of time in Benin. It is something we definitely had on the cards at the beginning of our adventure, although not expensive by East African standards the trip up there, the guide, the need for a car, coming in at the end of season, and a matter of time all made this something we had to cut out of our adventure. Locals and tourists rate these places highly, but we’d love to hear from anybody who has made it up there on their experiences to make the Amateur guide complete.

>>> The Amateur Low Down

Highlight: Sitting at one of Cotonou’s streetside bars having an honest conversation with locals in a democracy about the issues facing Benin. It was truly inspiring to hear about their work, discuss the challenges they face, but most refreshingly was the optimism about Africa’s future and pride in what they have.

Biggest Surprise: Our day in the ‘home’ of voodoo didn’t lead to any real answers about voodoo. The mystery remains as to these animist traditions. The Sacred Forest and the Temple of Pythons didn’t unravel any mysteries for us. Rather it left us with more questions, the best way to gain a better understanding of this culture would be to try and coincide your visit with a festival.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: African communities face an uncertain future due to the impacts of climate change on their livelihoods. Young Volunteers for the Environment is a group that is taking the lead in engaging with local African communities in tackling the biggest environmental issues the area faces.

We were lucky enough to meet some people who work with another organisation, Junior Chamber International which helps young people build partnerships in their community, one of the key projects being teaching young people skills for social entrepreneurship so that they can build sustainable businesses and create opportunities to be leaders in their communities.