It might only look small on a map but underestimate Togo at your own peril. The nightlife, the best beaches and amazing eats – this is every thing you need to know about Togo to go.
Togo
Capital: Lome
Population: 5.2 million
Economy: GDP $5368 billion – 148th, GDP Per Capita – $826 – 173rd
Human Development Index: .499 – 159th
Sport Trivia: Earlier this year tragedy struck the Togolese football team on their way to the African Cup of Nations in Angola when their team bus was fired upon by rebel groups in Angola’s Cabinda region. The team subsequently withdrew from the tournament, in mourning of the event and the death of the team’s reserve goalkeeper. Shockingly, the team was barred from all African football tournaments for 4 years, penalising Togo players and fans for this tragic event. You might not know much about Togo, but if you know football you know Manchester City’s Emmanuael Adebayor.
Adebayor announced his retirement from international football following Togo’s suspension, but hinted that he may be persuaded to return if the ban was uplifted. Following his couragous action, public support and a broader campaign to overturn this suspension, the authorities have announced Togo will be eligible to play in African tournaments and no penalty will be served. Here’s the full story.
>>> Traveller Info
With a coastline just 50km wide, it’s possible to snooze your way through Togo, but hanging around for the coastline and the rest of the country that lies within is a must. Togo can turn it on with cheap eats, local nightly beats and more motos than you can imagine!
Visa Requirements: Coming from Ghana you could cross into Togo without even realising it at one of the most picturesque border crossings in the world. It’s just 50m from the waves crashing onto the golden sands. Togolese visas which last for 1 week are available at the border for 10 000CFA (15 Euro). You just need to give the details of a hotel in Togo and you’re good to go.
Parlez-vous Anglais? Being one of the countries nestled between the two Anglophone giants of West Africa- Ghana and Nigeria, make some basic English a lot more common amongst Togolese.
>>> @Lome
How did we get there: From Accra we grabbed a tro tro (shared mini bus) to Aflao at the border for 8C (4 Euro), including baggage for the 4 hour journey. The border crossing is relatively pain free, but once you pass through the Togolese side you’re basically in Lome, so a taxi into town shouldn’t set you back more than 1000CFA or cheaper on one of the many waiting moto’s.
Where did we stay: Hotel Le Galion. This place is found in a nice quiet area, close to the Presidential Palace. You can get a room for around 7000CFA for a double room with a shower. The best thing about this place is definitely the free wireless internet which brings in many people to the downstairs bar and restaurant.
Getting a feed: For value as always there is a fair bit of street food along the beach strip but for the best food head to the concentration along the bar strip in town. For some disbelieving laughs though head to the single arch, Aldonalds for a cheesey burger and a cheesey snap or two.
Out on the Town: Lome has much to offer in terms of nightlife. There are many street bars, the African cultural centre for some pumping live music almost every night and there are a host of swanky bars littered around. For a big night out don’t miss Le Villa. You’d be forgiven for thinking you were in a stylish location in any western city at an exclusive cocktail bar but it’s one of the best places we’ve found in West Africa for electro beats and modern music. We’ll also admit, there’s something a little bit special about sinking shots with UN officials and dancing with members of an EU delegation.
Difficulties: The biggest difficulty is comprehending how such a beautiful city in a magic location has so many people struggling to meet their most basic of needs. Togo has one of the lowest per capita income levels in this part of Africa and has been ruled by one family, the Eyadema’s since the middle of the 1960’s. Make of that what you will…
Learn from us: Our taxi driver took us to a place to get private taxi’s to Cotonou rather than the shared taxi’s. Be clear about where you are going and what you want. The shared taxi’s leave from a place just near the Grand Market on the main street on the beach. They might be surprised that you want to ride with the locals or they might just want to shake your wallet for a few extra dollars – the shared taxis will save you a mint.
>>> The Amateur Low Down
We won’t lie – we loved Lome. It’s a snapshot of a lifestyle where money is mixed between shanty huts crammed full of people in the markets. If you want something you can find it here. There are places which are incredible and there are places which are incomprehensible. Lome could be so much more and we hope one day it’s potential is realised.
Highlight: Just next to Lome’s port is a beachside getaway at Cristal Plage where deckchairs, beachside pools and windsurfing replace the hustle and bustle of the rest of Lome’s beach strip. Entry costs 2000CFA (3 Euro), definitely good value for a day under the sun and to experience West African luxury. The getaway is a few km from the road and there have been robberies by machete wielders on the dirt track, so even with a big group get your taxi to take you all the way in or try and snare a lift at least to the road on the way back.
Biggest surprise: Realising how much it costs to jump on the back of one of the many moto’s cruising around Lome. The guys aren’t marked, just hail somebody and get on board to get you around town for about 200CFA (30 Euro cents). It’s good fun, maybe even slightly more fun on your way home from a night out after a few drinks with the wind in your hair trying to crack a basic conversation in French.
On a side note – A night out with UN officials is pretty sweet.
One thing you can do to break down a barrier: Currently docked in Lome, working with the people of Africa is the Africa Mercy, run by the crew at Mercy Ships. It’s the world’s largest NGO hospital boat, with 450 people on board, working on numerous projects but predominately focusing on providing medical assistance to local communities. Just as importantly they are training local medical practitioners to ensure upon departure essential basic medical services can continue to be delivered to the Togolese.
We were lucky enough to get a tour of the ship and gain a better understanding of the amazing work the ship does in changing and giving people life. You can support their work here and find out about getting involved, check out our take on things
