The Amateur Overview
It’s a country that you barely here about, but for us a country that gave us some of our most enjoyable and enriching experiences so far. Make Burkina Faso a stop on your West Africa itinerary, its a good place to see Hippos, soak up the culture down in Bobo-Dioulossi and transition between the dust of the Sahel and the coastal strip to the south.

Depending on your tastes you can also do some of the most incredible/random things imaginable which you could only do in this part of the World.

Burkina Faso
Capital: Ouagadougou
Population: 16 mill.
Economy: GDP (PPP) $17.7 Billion (122nd)- Per capita- $1161 (149th)
Exchange rate: 1 Euro: 656 CFA
Human Development Index: .389 (177th)
Sporting Trivia: Burkina Faso hosts an annual international cycling event, the Tour Du Faso. It may not have as many steep climbs as the Tour De France, but plus 40 degree temperatures combined with the duststorms and terrible road would make each stage a real challenge. Last year’s champion was Moroccan Abdelatif Saadoune.

>>> Travel Info In and around the capital centre is pretty hectic and in the heat it’s a bit much but on the outskirts of Ouagadougou anything is possible. Where else can you experience a day where in the morning you’re feeding crocodiles, after lunch you’re touring the bars of Zogona by donkey cart and at night you’re being served food by local performers on rollerskates?

>>>Visa Requirements
If you’re a Westerner it’s a pleasantly painless and surprisingly quick process at the Malian/Burkina border crossing for 10000CFA (15 Euro) along with 2 passport photos. We can’t say the same for locals though, our driver was slugged heavily coming out of Mali and re-entering Burkina.

Parlez-Vous Anglais? 30% – some French is pretty handy here. Although we hung out with the expat crowd most the time so that smoothed the ride for us when we were out and about.

@ Ouagadougou
We became pretty fond of the area around Zogana market away from the intensity of downtown. This was probably also due to the searing heat – mid summer. Ouaga, as it’s affectionately known is a cool city to check out for a few days and a gateway to many other sights that Burkina Faso has to offer.

How did we get there: We took 6 hrs to get 130km, got downright dirty speeding on unsealed roads and then hitchhiked at night the rest of the trip. No seriously, thats how we did it. You might want to stick to the bus companies that operate along the route to Ouagadougou – driving at night in Africa is dangerous.

From Mopti (Mali) we tried to grab a sept-place to Koro, but instead we were greeted by a van 3500CFA (6 Euro),which generally mean longer waiting times, slower driving and just generally more frustration. We paid a bit extra to jump in the front, which looking back was a good decision considering our state of mind and that the average speed to Koro was 22km/h. That’s right it took 6 hours to drive about 130km.

Once in Koro, apparently the taxi’s were finished so we paid another 3500CFA each to jump in a random guy’s car across the border to Ouahigouya, at first we were pleased to be hitting the track at 90km an hour but a solid covering of dust changing this outlook. We arrived in Ouahigouya at 7pm, after the final departure for Ouaga.

Sense would have said stay here and take off early in the morning but we were determined to get to Ouaga. Initial efforts to hitchhike from the petrol station were unsuccessful but, an hour of Champions League and finally a verbal confrontation between hotel touts later, we found a guy who was ready to take us. Our first successful African hitchhike, we set off for 5000CFA (8 Euro) each to Ouagadougou. After 2 hours, 130km/h, rumours of bandits operating along the track and a near near collision with a massive donkey – we survived and made it to town by 11pm.

Where Did We Stay: On a couch in Zogona, an area full of expats, mostly working with NGOs. Electricity outtages are still a major issue in this part of town. We would recommend Zogona over central Ouaga, it’s only a euro or two taxi ride away but it’s a world away from the hussle and bussle.

Difficulties: We struggled to find a good internet connection around town in Ouaga, and resorted to using the connection at a local NGO. If you find a decent connection here let us know.

Learn from us: Don’t travel at night in Africa. We were almost involved in a very serious car accident. Roads are in poor condition, there’s poor visibility, animals stray across the road frequently and there are no lines, reflectors or any of the road safety instruments you’ll find in any western country.

Around town – a reminder that as soon as you dont worry about agreeing to a price beforehand it’s difficult to work out of it after the event. We scored a ride across town to pick up our bus tickets for 1000CFA (1.50 Euro) and upon arrival asked the driver to wait under 5 minutes. The return journey and the wait cost us 2000CFA apparently, so make it clear the deal beforehand. Locals get in a shared taxi for about 250-500CFA so definitely don’t pay more than 1000CFA getting around town.

The traveller scene: There was a jazz festival in town so the French Cultural Centre was packed with travellers for that and you’ll find most travellers battling with internet in the scattered cafes.

Getting a feed: Travelling through countries where Pork is nigh impossible to come across? Well, if you’re in town on a Saturday morning and have a craving, it has to be roadside grilled pork on the menu. You purchase chunks of meat it in lots of 500CFA along with a local seasoning and mustard. It’s highly recommended if you need to get momentarily back on the pork bandwagon.

Out on the town: Three words – Donkey Pub Crawl. We got a group together and commandered 2 donkeys, 2 drivers and 2 carts for 6000CFA (9.20 Euro) for 4 hours per cart to have a pub crawl with a twist.

If donkeys aren’t your thing then Ouaga has plenty of street side bars all around town. You should be able to get large beers for 600CFA (90 euro cents). Brakina beer is pretty high on the list of beers we’ve come across so far so enjoy.

To see Burkina in pictures head to our Burkinabe gallery.

>>>The Amateur Low Down

Highlight- For fun you can’t go past the donkey pub crawl but for meaning and the reminder about why we’re in Africa it’s the granite mine in Ouagadougou.

On first mention by a friend about a story of a mysterious donkey pub crawl we were sold. That was Ouaga and it had to happen. Our first African pub crawl and with an animal twist. Fortunately, we we were able to arrange it all with some locals who admirably didn’t undercut each other on price during negotiations.

We did it in the Zogona/International School of Ouagadougou district where there are an array of drinking holes, but you can do it anywhere there is a donkey and in this part of Africa that’s in most places.

Biggest Surprise - Ever felt the need to sit on a crocodile? No, we didn’t either until we arrived in Bazoule, 35km from Ouagadougou. It’s here you stroll down into a dry lagoon, pay 1000CFA for a chicken, 1000CFA for entry, add the lagoon’s crocodiles and you can work out the rest.

It’s pretty unbelievable, the guides seem to genuinely enjoy holding the chicken’s on the end of the stick and swinging them around to get the crocs attention. What would be surreal would be loosening the wallet and buying up big and seeing the carnage. Once 10 Crocodiles converge its time for a bit of a tease, a few moments of terror for the chickens, a few cheesy video grabs and it’s feeding time. For the locals the Crocodiles are thought to be sacred, so the best time of year to check it out is in October for the festival.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier. Don’t think children growing up in an open cut granite mine is a good idea? Then you can do something about it and support the work Association des Enfants et Jeunes Travailleurs de Burkina (Association of Child and Young Workers in Burkina) in getting more kids away from the dangers of the mine and into schools. This group is ably supported by Save The Children Canada. You can see our detailed video and information on this here.

The Amateur Overview
Its one of the big guns of West Africa and once you head out into the country, it’s a easy to see why. Here’s how we undressed Mali in detail.

Mali
Capital: Bamako
Population: 15 million.
Economy: GDP (PPP) $15 (127th)- Per capita- $1173 (163rd)
Exchange rate: 1 Euro: 656 CFA
Human Development Index: .371 (178th)
Sporting Trivia: It’s difficult to go past Mali’s best known football Fredric Kanoute when it comes to trivia, currently turning out for Sevilla and has a UEFA cup to his name.

>>> Travel Info
It’s easy to get around Mali and there’s plenty to do. From the Bamako fetish markets, to the traditions of the Dogon people, Mali has a lot to offer and a lot to make you love it. In Bamako, you’ll also find the hub of West African nightlife, in Dogon Country you’ll find traditional African villiages and in Timbuktu, well, you’ll find the middle of nowhere.

>>>Visa Requirements
At the border for 15000CFA (23 Euro) along with a couple of passport pics you can secure a 5 day visa. You’ll then need to take trip to the immigration office in Bamako to get the full 1 month tourist visa at no extra cost – it should take just 24 hours.

Parlez-Vous Anglais? 40% – The more developed tourist scene here at key points make it easier to get by without much French. There are quite a few guides around the place and we were constantly amazed at the guides who have learnt their 3rd and 4th languages solely from talking with tourists over the years.

@ Bamako
The heart of Mali boasts an amazing fetish market, a lively music scene, impressive street side shoe sellers and streets packed with thousands of scooters whizzing by.

How did we get there: It was a long, complicated journey from western Gambia. It begain with a 3 hour sept place (9 seater) journey in possibly the rustiest car on earth struggling through the sand track for 3 hours with 13 people across from Basse Santu Su to Velingara.

We then grabbed a taxi across to the station to Tambacouta which was our introduction to real dust. In Tamba in searing heat, in a rush and over cramped wagon conditions we weren’t thinking straight. We didn’t take the budget option sept place for 5000CFA (7 Euro), instead we coughed up 20,000CFA (30 Euro) each for speed and comfort with a personal taxi driver for the 220km to the border. Once we slid through immigration it was only an hour wait for us for a bus all the way to Bamako 12500CFA (19 euro) for a 14 hour overnight journey (we must add here we got very lucky – other passengers had waited 2 days).

Where Did We Stay: The Sleeping Camel. Easily the best place we’ve stayed so far in Africa. We rocked up at 6am after 3 days solid travel and we immediately knew this was for us. It has drinks, food, cable TV in the common area and free WIFI. The big attraction though are the great staff, a few Brits and an Aussie and the atmosphere around the place. It is refreshing to be at a place where the people were so helpful and up for a chat. It has dorm rooms for only 4000CFA (6 Euro) and a bunch of other accomodation options available. Seriously, make this your stop in Bamako, its new, professional and a great place to settle into Mali.

>>> The Amateur Low Down
Highlight: For sheer shock value the fetish markets are like nothing we’ve seen before. Used in animist culture, it’s a rare opportunity to see unique symbols such as burnt monkey heads amongst a range of other animal bits and pieces. Our advice – be respectful as these items are culturally significant so ask before taking any snaps.

Difficulties: The city is growing at a rapid rate and it gets quite hectic in and around the urban areas. Traffic is a massive problem so if possible avoid commuting at peak times.

Biggest Surprise: Roadworks stood between us and the Malian embassy upon arrival. The biggest surprise was that after being kicked out of the site, we were able to walk past police and workers in the 1km stretch of torn up earth to the embassy.

Learn from us: Make sure you get rid of your Gambian Delasi’s the moment you get into Senegal. We are still with quite a lot of Gambian currency which you can’t change anywhere. The only rates we could get in Bamako were rather disrespectful.

The traveller scene: Quite a few travellers around the place and this is a great way place to talk with others about northern travels and security conditions.

Getting a feed: Mali stands out with some of the best street food so head for the streets. On the southside of the Niger you’ll find meals with delicious beans and onion sauce for lowly 200CFA and you can throw in a side salad for 100CFA (about 15 Euro cents).

Out on the town: Bamako has a pretty lively party scene. Look for Djemba Djemba bar which is karoake with a difference, where instead of singing you can head up the front grab a guitar and join the band for a few beats. At most local bars you can get beers Castel for 500CFA (75 Euro cents).

@ Sevare & Mopti
We’d back Sevare if you had to choose between the two as it has a more relaxed atmosphere and the people are much friendlier. These towns (10km apart) serve as a transport hub if you want to head up to Timbuktu, down towards Dogon country and a gateway to Burkina Faso.

Where did we stay: Sevare- Mac’s Refuse 7000CFA per night in a dorm, with breakfast included. We sweated like crazy in our room with just a fan so not really a comfortable experience, although there is good wireless internet. An added bonus is the nightly street football going on about 50m from the front door, it’s great to have a run and the kids are amazing.

@ Mopti - Hotel Ya Pas Du Problemme, chosen as it was known to have wireless, it’s a nice enough place, with a bar and a pool. The wireless let us down – it didn’t work and costs 2000CFA for the password. The dorm rooms are comfortable and do the trick for a night or two for 5000CFA (7 Euro).

How did we get there: Check out our stories from Dogon Country and Timbuktu for the highlights. Getting to Sevare from Bamako cost 8000CFA (12 Euro) for a pretty hassle free 8 hour journey. We arrived in Sevare and had our return trip included in our costs for the trip to Dogon Country.

>>> The Amateur Low Down
Highlight: You can’t go past Dogon country. We’ve featured an article to Dogon Country here and you can check it out on video here.

Difficulties: Mopti didn’t strike us as a particularly appealing city, other than a vibrant port and scene along the river.

Biggest Surprise: In the middle of summer with the temperates in the high 30’s overnight – sleeping on a mud hut roof in Dogon Country we were awoken by what the locals described as ’survival rains’.

Learn from us: If we had our time again we’d probably do things in the following order – Bamako – Djenne – Mopti – Timbuktu – Sevare – Bandiagara – Dogon Country. This makes a bit more sense then what we did by heading down to Dogon as Bandiagara is on the way to Burkina Faso, in the direction we were departing the country.

The traveller scene: This depends on the time of year, if like us you go in the middle of summer you won’t find too many tourists around, particularly now, given the security warnings of the North. We were assured by tour guides that it’s very busy in peak season, however with the travel warnings the region is seeing tough times currently.

Getting a feed: A great street feed of mutton on the streets of Sevare. You’ll find mutton grills around town which offer as much as want with spices and you can choose the cut. Usually 500CFA worth will provide a good snack. You can normally get a sample first as well to test it and make sure you try the local seasonings they throw in.

Out on the town: This didn’t really happen for us here at all, it’s a small place with not a great deal happening on weeknights.

@ Timbuktu
We’ve been to Timbuktu and back – We’re not going to lie, being able to say that as a World traveller is a pretty special feeling. A precarious security situation, its still not easy to make it there and the thought of reaching the city that is the personificaiton of nowhere, it’s a must in West Africa. Listen to local advice about the situation, get a group together and head up for an incredible experience on this Saharan trade route.

How did we get there: That’s a good one. You can check it all out in the near future as soon as we can put together the video. It cost us 16000CFA each way on a 4WD where dust, sand and the elements test you. It’s a surreal experience and sure to give you some stories you’ll never forget.

Where did we stay: Camping La Paix. We stayed in a massive room on a mattress for 3000CFA a night, simple but did the trick for us.

>>> The Amateur Low Down
Highlight: The long road to get there – that tale will be told as soon as we can decide how best to describe it.

Difficulties: Getting there is a battle. The length of time, the cramped conditions, the dust, the heat all add up to make it a challenge making it up there. Our driver definitely had his moments, at times the local passengers demanded he pull over as we survived a couple of near misses due to his driving and at the fact we also missed the last ferry.

Biggest Surprise: Without doubt the cats of Timbuktu. You won’t see many walking the streets. Why? Because you’ll find them slung up in the skies over powerlines. If a cat enters the domain on the local children – it’ll lose 9 lives in a heartbeat. We were assured they can prepare a mean dish with a feline flavour.

Learn from us: Every guide and tout in town knew who we were before we even arrived. So with the security situation as it is, its probably pretty difficult to arrive ‘unannounced’ but the best bet is probably to tee up one guide and stick with it. For us it was Ali Nialy, everyone in town knows who he is and he’ll look after you. He’s a young bloke who runs camels but for us he wasn’t so much as a guide, in terms of being with us all day, but he sorted a few things out for us, and pointed us in the right direction to the local haunts you want to be but couldn’t find on your own.

The traveller scene: Still a handful of travellers around the place. Our 4WD up to Timbuktu was shared with a bunch of other westerners, it was well and truly a ‘Toabab voiture’. Currently, Timbuktu is struggling on the tourist front due to all the travel warnings. Our advice is do your research and head up with a few people, take a camel ride if you’ve got some cash and soak it up and smile – you’re in Timbuktu.

Getting a feed: The highlight had to be the sausages we found at Al Moloub Rotisserie. We scoffed down 2000CFA (3 Euro) worth which was probably more than required for the average human. A plate of beef sausages with chunks of beef and onion after a month in Africa is definitely a treat and we’ll go out on a limb and say – they are the best sausages in West Africa.

Out on the town: We caught a couple of beers in Timbuktu, mainly again just to be able to say we had a few drinks in Timbuktu. Any guide you might utilise will take you to a local place for some beers if you want.

What else can we tell you?
One thing you can do to break down a barrier: When in Bamako check the guys at the African Workshop. It’s a locally run drop in centre where some of the poorest kids in West Africa are given the opportunity to learn traditional Malian culture for free. It’s a great project and you can get hands on in working with local youth.

We’ll also tell you to see the Malian marvels first hand in our gallery!

The Amateur Overview
Probably the most up to date info on The Gambia in the World right now. Seriously, we just left 2 days ago.

The Gambia
Capital: Banjul
Population: 1.7 mill
Economy: GDP (PPP)- $2.6 billion (161st), Per Capita (PPP)- $1 430 (155th)
Exchange Rate: 1 Euro: 36 Dalasi’s
Human Development Index: .456 – 168th
Sporting Trivia: The Gambia is yet to win an Olympic medal. The national Football league has one team named after the national phone carrier GamTel and also a team from the Armed Forces.

>>> Travel Info: Refreshingly English Speaking. It’s Africa’s smallest country but what it lacks in size it makes up for with charm. The entire coastal area is easy to navigate with shared taxi at a low price. Up country is a different affair with terrible roads being the order of the day, but you pass through lively small villages. Also, we are just impressed that it has ‘The’ in its title ‘The Gambia’, it’s unique and quirky much like the coastal sprawls. The people are super friendly across the country and you’ll find their smiles more than contagious.

Visa Requirements: For members of Commonwealth nations a visa isn’t required, so entry is free. There were a few people having some issues at the border when we came through, so make sure you get the correct stamps in and out of Senegal.

Parlez-vous Anglais? 85%. Yes, its English speaking but it’s still not 100%. Gambians converse in their local tongues and sometimes the Australian accent meant we often struggled to get our point across in the first instance.

@ Banjul & around the Atlantic Coast
Where did we stay? In Banjul we stayed at Princess Diana Hotel right near the July 22 Arch for 250 Dalasi’s (7 Euro) which had decent rooms and friendly staff. We spent a couple of nights staying @Kanifeng YMCA Hostel, basic rooms, with sketchy shared bathrooms for 180 Dalasi’s (5 euro). They are doing some good work with the local community with various development projects and a school run out of the building.

In Eastern Gambia – @Bassa Bante Su where electricity is the feature you’ll need to search for. We found probably the most basic place we’ve ever stayed for 100 Dalasis (2.80 Euro), probably the cheapest place we’ve ever stayed, but the power outage early morning was like a bad nightmare – it’s steaming hot in April and with no fan you can expect an extremely long night.

How did we get there? From Dakar we jumped in a sept place (9 – Seater shared taxi) to the border at around 7am.

This is a look at our actual ride to The Gambia and beyond with a few bits and pieces in between.

Difficulties: A fair few people around who want to help and chat. Using lines like ‘we’re all one blood’ etc to get you to see a shop etc. Still it’s nothing if you keep calm, the worst we had was being told we weren’t friendly as we didn’t buy a coffee for a bloke who had tried to get us to an Irish bar. A few locals tried to lead us there – our advice would be don’t go, it’s obviously a haunt for the local ‘bumsters’ looking for foreigners to make a quick buck.

Learn from us: Due to the heat, most of the street food stands close down around 12pm. Make sure you get in before 11am to get the freshest foods otherwise you’ll have to wait until dusk before the locals bring their best meals back out to the street.

If you’ve been travelling about Northern or West Africa in the Francophone countries, you’ll find this is a great place to rest up before continuing the journey on. If you’re looking for Internet, most of the connections in Banjul are sketchy, but you will one that is very reliable in the park next to the Arch.

The traveller scene: First of all, we fdid find it slightly amusing. You can read the gist of it here. The Gambia is home to a thriving sex tourism scene, mostly in the form of Western women visiting The Gambia to meet young local guys. At any bar you head to you’ll find the dance floor filled with +50yo ladies dancing to a reggae groove with their new companions.

Getting a feed: We stumbled across our cheapest feed so far in Bakau. Fish balls, delicious beans on a bread roll at a small street stall for 9 Dalasis (20 Euro cents). It’s amazing and around other places you’ll find grilled meat & onion on a baguettes for between 15-50 Dalasis, although its hard to find after lunchtime. If you’re lucky, you’ll find the soup dish FuFu, a Nigerian dish along Independence drive in Banjul. It’s pretty special and dirt cheap.

Out on the town: There’s lots going on around the coast – bars, clubs, prostitutes and European ladies with young local guys. You can do anything here but make sure you get involved with the very cool local music scene loaded with reggae. You can do anything here and party pretty hard if you’re that way inclined. We hit up a few bars around Sinatra’s on the main strip in Bakau, a cool local bar and here you’ll also find young men who’ll want you to buy them a beer in exchange for drugs. You can grab beers at bars for 25 Dalasi’s (80 euro cents) and i’ts nearly always ‘happy hour’ at any of the bars on the Senegambia strip. The Senegambia strip is full of touts, all friendly enough and you’ll soon become a pro at working out how best to fend them off. If you need a club Wednesday night is ladies night at Wow nightclub and it brings in a pretty diverse crowd which makes for a fun night out.

Banjul itself doesn’t have a great deal to offer however there is an Australian opening up a new bar on the main street just down from the Arch in town.

>>> The Amateur Low Down

Highlight: After our Senegalese Visa debacle we decided to try secure our Malian visa before travelling the 1000km to the border. We searched in vain for the Consulute to no avail until we asked a young Gambian Navy officer. We were led to a small shopfront and told the consulate no longer exists, however, here an old Malian businessperson calls a guy who calls another guy who calls back to organise an official approval for a Visa for when you reach the border. It’s an experience and lesson #47 in unorthodox ways to obtain a Visa. Via this way, your only expense is the 50 Dalasi’s to top up the old Malian’s phone credit.

Biggest Surprise: It might be the smallest country in Africa but it punches above its weight in breweries. The local beer Julbrew was by far the best we’ve come across to this point. It’s definitely worth knocking back a few to get amongst the Gambian beer of choice. You’ll hear about the sex tourism scene here, but seeing is believing.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: The signs on the sides of the streets here are remarkably progressive, with information about littering, AIDS and many other development issues. Our impressions were that Gambia has better infrastructure (along the coastal strip anyway) than the other African nations we’d come across so far.

You can support the positive steps taken here in The Gambia, and help locals build upon this by following responsible and sustainable tourism projects, like those listed here.

The Amateur Overview
Everything you’ll need to know from the street side of things, Senegalese style.

Senegal
Capital: Dakar
Population: 14 mill.
Economy: GDP (PPP) $22 Billion (111th)- Per capita- $1752 (147th)
Exchange rate: 1 Euro: 656 CFA
Human Development Index: .464 (166th)
Sporting Trivia: Traditional wrestling is once again the national obsession with big name fights on. There was even a 2 hour special we saw examining the controversial finish of a major bout a few weeks earlier.

>>> Travel Info
One of the giants of West Africa, this Francophone country serves up some great beats, brought us the sept-place (7 seater local taxis) and got us back on the nightlife bandwagon. It is much more touristy than the countries we’d come across to this point, which brings the inevitable positives and negatives.

>>>Visa Requirements
We are now experts in this field. A number of countries have a visa waiver for Senegal. Australia is not one of them, but we were under the impression you could grab one at the border. As we now know it isn’t possible, despite our “c’est possible’ protests and we lost 3 days, a lot of time and money. Picking up a visa in Nouakchott is a pretty simple affair, just bring along a few passport pictures, an address in Senegal and 1700UM (5 Euro) and you should be on your way within 48 hours. It took us slightly longer as we were after a double entry visa as we were going through The Gambia also. Check out the full story of our Visa troubles.

Parlez-Vous Anglais? 35% – French is definitely more than helpful here. We hit the tourist hotspots of St Louis and Dakar so there a plenty of English speakers around. Between these places French would be more of a requirement along with a few basic lines in Wolof. The problem being that often it is the people who come up and speak English who are trying to scam you or get you along to their bar.

@ Saint Louis
Where did we stay: L’Antantide Auberge De Jeunesse- twin room 6500CFA (10 Euro) per person/night. Basic breakfast included, mosquito nets, nice courtyard and friendly staff.

How did we get there: From Rosso in a sept-place the 2 hour journey cost us 2000CFA (3 Euro) each. This was a super cramped ride in the back row. Try to stay firm on minimising/avoiding baggage costs. The garage is back on the mainland about 5km from the island so a taxi into town set us back 1000CFA (1.5 Euro)

Difficulties: A fair few people are around the place trying to get you into their shop. St Louis is a beautiful city, with great old buildings and is really a top place for some photos.

Learn from us:
Get you Visa before getting to the border.

The traveller scene: After coming from Mauritania, it seemed that their were tourists everywhere here. Their are plenty of bars around with expats and it seems a lot of French still here in this former colonial West African capital.

Getting a feed: At local restaurants we scored some Mafe for 1000CFA (1.5 Euro). The real highlight for us though was a late night spot we came across selling great mince and onion baguettes for 500CFA (70 Euro cents).

Out on the town: This is where we jumped back on the booze bandwagon and St Louis has a fair few options for getting out on the tiles. There are a number of bars with live music to get you started. We also hit up Laser club with some Peacecorp volunteers for the salsa – 2000CFA entry. The Iguana Bar is a good place to finish up the night for some western style music, and you’ll find it slightly amusing seeing everybody dancing in front of the mirror wall. You won’t laugh at the beers here though, expensive at 2000CFA (3 Euro) a pop. There is no cover charge here, but if you head in and don’t buy a drink straight up you might get a few hassles. Gazelle, Flag and Castel you can get at most places for 1000 – 1200CFA (under 2 Euro). Gazelle is the biggest, cheapest, and probably the nastiest option.

@ Dakar
Where did we stay: Chez Nizar- room 5000CFA (7.60 Euro) per person/night. Very basic, right in the heart of Dakar, cool view from the roof, the shower water only just squirts out, you get what you pay for here.

How we got here: Coming in from St Louis took us around 5 hrs. It really isn’t that far, only around 250km, but the last 50km or so into Dakar was an absolute crawl for us in the traffic. Cost per person 5000CFA (7.50 Euro). The taxi from the Gare Routiere Pompier was 2000CFA, although we reckon it’s possible to get for a bit less – it’s not that far into the centre.

If you want to check out some of the roads around Senegal and in and out of The Gambia, we filmed bits and pieces on the road.

Difficulties: Dakar was by far the craziest city we’d been to so far, our first big African metropolis. It was alive with street markets, awash with expats and annoying over eager touts. Pickpockets are operating all the time everywhere and we narrowly avoided an attempted effort early one afternoon. We can’t say this place isn’t dangerous as we’ve also met fellow travellers with much worse stories and injuries.

Learn from us: Do a bit more research about what is going on, it’s not the easiest city to get around and it’s hard to find information locally without people trying to sell you something.

The traveller scene: Travellers from all around are here, particularly in the centre of the town and along the coast.

Getting a feed: We indulged in the Senegalese dish Yassa here at a restaurant for 2500CFA (4 Euro). Again, the best bit was a street food vendor selling baguettes with meat and onion for 500CFA (70 Euro cents)

Out on the town: On the main stretch Le Viking has 350ml Flag beers for 1000CFA (1.5 Euro) which is full of expats listening to live music, whilst upstairs has a different clientele. Later on across town you’ll find Koulgroul a packed nightclub with a lively atmosphere and great value beers 500ml Flags for 1000CFA. Just quietly, people at this place can dance.

>>> The Amateur Low down

See it all for yourself – The Senegalese sensations in pictures.

The Highlight – It has to be Saint Louis’s colonial era buildings, musical vibe and kids playing soccer everywhere on the street. Even with dodgy cameras you can grab a top quality snap here with the colourful buildings in the background. Whether they are decrepit or recently renovated the reds, yellow and blues bring the buildings to life.

No matter what part of the island you’re on you’ll come across some intense games of street soccer through the sandy streets which spontaneously turn into wrestling matches. The city is alive and it’s great to be part of people going about their daily routines here.

Biggest Surprise: We were joined in town by Jesse Jackson, Robert Mugabe and Akon. for the 4th of April celebrations for Senegal’s 50 years of independence. The lack of festivities going on around the streets was staggering as we had some strong images of what a celebration of this magnitute might look like Senegalese style.

The day before the controversial ‘Monument to the African Renaissance’ the brainchild of the current President Wade was unveiled. Other than a few speeches we caught on TV and a small military parade it seemed around Dakar that it really was a celebration that was kept away from most people. The streets in the town were eerily empty, on the Place D’Indenpendence, at the Presidential Palace and everywhere their was silence.

The streets did come to life for 5 minutes when the day’s wrestling main event had come to an end, with people who were glued to any radio, TV suddenly rushing out to celebrate their man’s victory.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: Street kids are all around in Senegal and the most helpful Senegalese guy we met just happens to be doing something about it. To help break down barriers to education, check out Education without borders and support the work they are doing in Senegal.

An Amateur Overview
Everything we can tell you about Mauritania, starting with the basic facts so you can impress your friends.

Mauritania
Capital: Nouakchott
Population: 3.5 million
Economy: GDP (PPP)- 6.232 billion, Per Capita GDP $2.055 143rd
Exchange rate: 1 Euro = 350UM (approx)
Human Development Index: .520 154th
Random sports trivia: After chatting to a couple of Mauritanians about their sporting prowess, they remained adamant that no Mauritanians were playing football in any European leagues & they have yet to win an Olympic medal. They then rightly added that the country faces bigger challenges. As far as supporting a team goes, our straw pole on the Iron Ore Train was evenly divided between FC Barcelona and Real Madrid fans.

Travel Info
Mauritania, a country where before coming we didn’t know much about except for its ongoing battle with slavery. It’s blessed with a pristine coastline, a burning desert and probably the world’s longest train (no one appears to be able to actually confirm this, anywhere). All of this combines to make for an unforgettable experience in a country where we were originally just going to pass through.

Visa/Entry Requirements: It’s no longer possible to get a visa at the border. We had to resort to getting ours 2 months earlier in at the Mauritanian embassy in Berlin. Costs depend on nationality and which embassy you apply at. For us it cost 60 Euro for a single entry 1 month visa.

Parlez-vous Anglais?
Rating: 60% – You can probably just get by with English here, but the people speaking English are generally the one’s who’ll charge you a bit more. Head out onto the street to get into the culture. Usually amongst every group, people are more than willing to help with any problems and somebody might have a bit of English.

@ Nouadhibou
Where we stayed: Auberge Chez Abba – camping 1500UM (4 Euro) or twin room 2000UM (5.5 Euro) per night. Friendly staff, a few who speak English & hot showers.

How we got there: From bush taxi from Dakhla (Morocco) 350DH (30 euro).

Difficulties: We struggled to find a good internet connection here, it was extremely slow so make sure you have a good look around. 200UM/hour.

Traveller scene: Met an English lad and a French lady at the camping grounds who had just jumped off the Iron Ore train. It’s a great place to exchange stories with people who’ve been trekking off the beaten track in West Africa and more importantly to get some tips for the region and the travels ahead.

Getting a feed: There is no way we can go past the grilled fish and rice served at local hole in the wall eateries along with Mauritanian tea, a national specialty.

Out on the town: You’ll struggle to get a beer here as alcohol is illegal in the country, however you can find it if you look hard enough.

@ Nouakchott
Where did we stay: Auberge Menata – in 3 bed dorm – 2500UM (7.5 Euro) It has very basic beds, internet available, cooking facilities, large outdoor areas, a shop at the front and a turtle. On the negative side, if you want some information from the staff here you’ll probably be hooked up with one of their ‘mates’ who will help you, but they’ll help break your budget as well. Everything’s cheaper in the street.

How we got there: We took the scenic route, the Iron Ore train from Noudhibou – Choum – 12 hrs – FREE in the wagons, departing Noudhibou at around 3pm. Then from Choum-Atar at 4.30am jumped aboard with 6 other people on top of a truck to Atar through unsealed roads for 3hrs – 1500UM (5 Euro) Then from Atar-Nouakchott in a shared taxi for 4500UM (13 Euro) for a 6 hr journey.

Difficulties: We jumped in a taxi from the Gare Routiere for our hotel, we had the address and a map, in the middle of the taxi ride our driver asked somebody else in, this person grabbed our guidebook and ‘showed’ us the way. He then came into the hotel demanding 500UM for his ‘help’. Be firm, but polite in response to this.

We had read about problems with finding an ATM, however there seems to have been a recent boom and on a few main streets in the capital you’ll find them guarded with security.

Learn from Us: Doing a load of washing. There are plenty of places to get your clothes washed, but you’ll pay per piece so it adds up. 15 Euro for a load was a high price to pay for that lesson. Ask around in-house or plug up the bath tub and get your hands dirty.

For the onward traveller – if you’re going to Senegal and need a Visa, make sure you get it here and leave yourself 2 days for processing. Trust us – this was a lesson we learnt the hard way.

The traveller scene: There are quite a few French speaking tourists, particularly campervans around the place.

Getting a feed: There are plenty of food options available around the centre of the city. Alternatively head to the Fish markets for something straight from the ocean. Take a stroll around to find what you’re after for a reasonable price. You can grab a large lamb sandwich for 400UM (1.20Euro) at small local restaurants and we also stumbled across an Algerian restaurant serving traditional cuisine for 700UM (2 Euro) or at lunchtime Senegalese style fish and rice for 400UM (1.20 Euro).

>>> The Amateur low down
Highlight: Iron ore train. It’s that good we’ve dedicated a whole video and a featured article to it.

Biggest surprise: The hectic, smelly, amazing fish markets. Make the journey down there late in the afternoon to see the boats bring the day’s catch in, watch people clean fish and soak up the atmosphere at the markets just 50m from the ocean. The beach is lined with boats painted in all sorts of colours that make a great backdrop.

The sheer amount of Mercedes Benz on the road is staggering and it’s another thing you’ll notice, along with the roadside hand gestures which local hitchhikers use to hail bush taxi’s in all directions.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: Slavery was only outlawed in Mauritania in 2007. It is estimated that 18% of adults are still in forced labour, It is estimated that it is the highest % of a population anywhere in the world. Click here to continue the campaign to condemn slavery to the past and you can do your bit to help local Mauritanian groups like SOS Esclaves.

For all the pictures you’ve got to check out the gallery.

An Amateur Overview
Everything useful we can pass on and the basic information you might be able to use in local trivia.

Morocco
Capital: Rabat
Population: 32 000 000
Economy: GDP (PPP)- 146 Billion 55th , Per capita GDP $4.388 101st.
Exchange Rate: approx. 1 Euro: 11DH
Human Development Index: .654 (130th)
Sporting Triva: The first African country to play in a Football World Cup Finals in 1970.

Travel Info
Morocco has much to offer with major tourist destinations like Casablanca, Marrakesh, Fez and more. We skipped these places, they will have to be left for another time. We flew into Agadir as it was the cheapest flight into Africa as far south as we could get as we headed into the West African region.

Visa/Entry Requirements: No visa required. Allow half an hour to get through the queue as the planes arrive, but once at the desk it was a painless 30 seconds to get the entrance stamp.

Parlez-vous Anglais?
Rating: 25% – It’s easy to get by here with just English, but it’s a good place to try out your French skills, if you have any. With the basics you will be understood and will often get the response in English anyway.

@ Agadir
Where did we stay: Hotel Sindibad – Twin room with bathroom, cable TV for 13 Euro. Good WIFI in lobby, breakfast not included, small rooftop pool and great characters.

How we got there: From Agadir airport (about 30km from the city) there is a bus service available for 4DH, but we arrived after 7.30pm and they’d stopped for the evening. That meant the only option into town was a 20 min fixed price taxi for 220DH. During the day you can grab one for 150DH (13euro), but clearly the prices get jacked up when the buses finish.

Difficulties: None really, the biggest hassle we had was trying to find sunscreen for a reasonable price. You’ll get hit up a lot on the way to the beach about all shapes and sizes of stuff, and after the hard sell on their legit products doesn’t work you might just get asked if you want to buy something to smoke. Saying we were Australians encouraged them and the assumption was that we just wanted to just surf and get high.

Learn from Us: As with most tourist destinations, avoid eateries with menus translated into English and other languages. Some here are cheap and good value, but you’ll still save at least 60% at a local stool and table set up.

For the onward traveller – check the bus timetables as early as you can as buses are sold out in advance and longer southern routes only run a couple of times a day.

The traveller scene: Agadir boasts a wide, albeit littered beach that seems to be the main selling point for visiting. The scene here is dominated by middle aged/elderly Europeans looking for a tan.

Getting a feed: Stay away from the restaurants with touts and down on the beach esplanade. Find where the locals are sitting down for a meal and grab some Beef Tajine for about 1 Euro.

Out on the town: Alcohol not widely available. We came across beer at a restaurant for 16DH (1.5 EURO). You can also grab it from the larger supermarkets in town and the clubs on the beach at a heavily inflated price.

@ Western Sahara
Officially part of Morocco as a non-self governing territory. These region is recognised by 81 countries as the Sahrawi Arab Demoratic Republic, whose Polisario Front leadership are in exile in Algeria.

How we got there: Agadir to Dakhla on large private bus cost 350DH (30 Euro) – 1200km. From Dakhla we grabbed a shared taxi for 350DH to Noudhibou (Mauritania). Save yourself a couple of Euro by getting off at the checkpoint on the edge of Dakhla rather than taking the bus into Dahkla, as the shared taxi’s for Mauritania leave from the checkpoint. Through Western Sahara it’s a good idea to make some photocopies (around 5) of your passport with details of your Moroccan entry info to speed things along on the journey.

>>> The Amateur low down.
Highlight: The unspoilt coastline of southern Morocco and Western Sahara. Along the coastline you will see lines of campervans waiting for sunset and locals who daily must wake up to views people spend millions for.

Biggest surprise: The border between Morocco and Mauritania gives new meaning to the term ‘no man’s land’. 3km bumping through sand dunes and rocky tracks, with no clear direction of where the other side is, burnt out cars, litter and cars stopped waiting for their travel companions to make it through. This would definitely be a challenging border to navigate if you were driving yourself.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: Travel to Western Sahara and spend some time there to understand the unresolved issues and the unspoilt beaches.