If you’ve been in West or Central Africa, you’ve probably only stumbled across this place if you’re in transit but if you get out and stretch your legs, you might find more than a few surprises. Gabon is home to probably some of the richest rainforests in the World and its sunsets would rival any on the West Coast. It’s a favourite for Francophone expats and if you’re in Libreville you can live it up.

Gabon
Capital: Libreville
Population: 1.5 million
Economy: GDP (PPP) $21 106 billion – 102nd; Per Capita (PPP) – $14 318 – 44th
Human Development Index: .755HDI, 103rd
Sporting Trivia: The Amateurs favourite English team, Hull City may have been relegated. One of their strikers over the past few years was Gabon’s Daniel Cousin. Cousin has now moved on to Larissa FC in Greece on loan.

>>>> Traveller Info
There are plenty of expats around town so you’ll have no problems getting by. The accommodation prices are proof that this place is not made to cater for backpackers. If you are travelling through West and Central Africa it’s a good place to have a bit of fun if you’ve got the coin.

Visa Requirements: First of all, wear something decent to the consulate otherwise you’ll be like us filling out your visa forms out on the front on the street. The 1 month tourist visa cost us 50 000CFA (80 Euro) and takes 3 days to get back at the embassy in Yaounde.

Parlez- vous Francais? 35%, our last French speaking country in Africa. English is not commonly spoken here as French is the language of choice. On the occasions when were trying to find something we came across somebody who spoke a bit of English after the efforts in French were in vein.

@Libreville
It’s the capital and it’s where you’ll find everything and everyone. Gabon is sparsely populated so there’s no doubt you’ll find yourself swinging by the big smoke if you’re in the country.

How did we get there: We came from Yaounde, first of all grabbing a shared taxi to the border city for 3000CFA (4.50 Euro). During this trip we navigated many a request for ‘fees’ (by fees we mean money/goods for corrupt officials) from 5 checkpoints, dodging and weaving our way to earn the respect of our fellow passengers for not paying a cent.

Once we made it into Gabon it was a 15000CFA (23 Euro) overnight bus to Libreville taking about 13 hours. This ride gets off to a frustrating start with many longwinded police stops – basically one every 15 minutes for the first 2 hours. It is then a rally race through some pretty good roads in intensely lush forest with a heavy fog.

Where did we stay: It’s the thing that kills you about Libreville, the accommodation costs. It is expensive and difficult to find somewhere for a bit of value. Eventually we conceded the battle and went to Hotel Somotel on for 30 000CFA (44 Euro) a night for a room.

Learn from us: We went searching for the place with the cheapest listing – Hotel Liebermann, but to no avail. Lugging backpacks in the humidity didn’t make for a fun experience trying to locate this mysterious hotel. We asked many people around the Carrefour Leon Mba we got nothing but empty looks about this hotel that was apparently located right where we stood. We even phoned them numerous times so if you can find it – please let us know.

Getting a feed: Fortunately, Libreville still delivers on the cheap street food front. A Burkinabe lady was astounded to hear we’d been to her homeland as we downed some generous helpings of her African meals. Whether it’s tasty bread rolls, rice, or beans you should be able to satisfy your appetite for under 1000CFA (1.5 Euro) with some of the best subway like sandwiches on the West Coast.

On the town: The strip along the beach is the place to head. With a number of cool spots in prime positions. We were only there during the week so nothing really escalated but if you are a Libreville local or spent some time there we’ve heard good things so let us know where’s the best spots in town.

>>>> The Amateur Low Down

Highlight: With police checkpoints it takes a while to get going but the rally drive we had to enter the country on an overnight mini-bus was a true highlight. The trip has some great windy roads through picturesque forests and you feel like you’re next to Colin McCrae (a former world rally champion) for around 50km as the drivers battle deteriorating roads, sharp bends and blinding patches of fog. For this stretch sit back, relax and watch the drivers for the most masterfully navigate the potholes through thick fog. Alternatively, it’s probably best to close your eyes and hope you wake up.

Biggest Surprise: The level of development here is reportedly much higher than many other parts of Africa. Whilst the coastal strip reflects a lot of development, evidence of the country’s relatively high per capita income, there still remains a large number of Gabonese without access to basic services. The main road from Libreville to Yaounde is for the most part in good condition but there have been many questions about the siphoning off of funds allocated to fixing this transport route and one 77km section which is unsealed.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: Deforestation of the world’s forest continues at an alarming rate. We were lucky enough to drive across this nation endowed with wonderful rainforests, covering 85% of the country. 11% of the country has been designated as National Parks. When we flew over it during the day and you can’t help but be struck the sheer scale of the forest below. Across the globe the rate of deforestation is growing due to increased agricultural use, timber products and building. The Billion Trees campaign is just one of many aims at reversing the increase in deforestation and getting decision makers to realise the importance of preserving our forests for local communities and to avert dangerous climate change.

This is a land where the jungle meets the beach and English meets French and this is a land full of amazing people, places, nightlife and unbelievable foods.

Cameroon
Capital: Yaounde
Population: 19 Million
Economy: GDP (PPP )- $42, 550billion – 91st; GDP (PPP) Per Capita – $2147- 142nd
Human Development Index: .523, 153rd
Sporting Trivia: Cameroon, probably Africa’s best known football team, like the country itself its football team embodies all that is Africa. Cameroon also boast one of Africa’s biggest stars, Inter Milan’s Samuel Eto’o. The Roger Miller led 1990 ‘Indomitable Lions’ surprised the world when they made the World Cup Quarter Finals, the sort of success that this year’s crop of Lions will be trying to emulate in 2010.

>>> Traveller Info
It’s a place you couldn’t spend enough time – Cameroon stretches from the dust of the east, to the golden shores of the Atlantic and reaches up into the sky with the Mountain of Thunder, Mt. Cameroon. Its economic heart beats in Douala, but Yaounde is where political power is held. Head to Cameroon to chill by the beach with a few beers with reputably Africa’s best beer drinkers, catch a glimpse of jungle as dense as you’ve ever seen and check on your language skills in this bilingual beauty.

To see what it looks like for yourself here’s the Video.

Visa Requirements: Yep it’s expensive. We secured ours at the Cameroon Consulate in Calabar, Nigeria. You can get it on the same day, just spend a few hours watching TV at the consulate with Cameroonians but first you’ll need 17000N (90 Euro), 3 passport photos and a few details about where you’ll be staying in Cameroon.

Parlez-vous Francais? 70% – Cameroon is one of the few countries in the world that bridges the Anglophone and Francophone divide. The country is officially bilingual, although except for a few towns such as Limbe, it’ll be French that you’ll want to bust out when buying a baguette. This interesting mix makes for some controversies, but watching a newscast alternate between two presenters and languages is something pretty cool to see.

@ Limbe
If you’re like us you’ve just come off a rough 5hr ferry ride after a hectic week battling everyone and everything in Nigeria. Thankfully, Limbe is ready made to get you back into the travelling groove, relax and just soak up one of the most picturesque parts of Africa. You’ll find it right on the beach under the shadows of Mt. Cameroon and it is one of the few Anglophone cities in Cameroon which if you don’t know basically means – they speak English.

How did we get there: We got some ferry action. The Endurance ship by Fakoship, the company has had a chequered history but there current model is pretty flash and seems prepared for the waters. It cost us 9500N (47 Euro) for the journey. Yes, it is a bit expensive but there’s bascially no other way to get there and we didn’t want to think how much another Nigerian trip to the border was going to cost us.

Our tip though would be to have a few plastic bags ready as the waves may test your stomach.

Where did we stay: Up a dirt track near the roundabout as you enter town from the immigration point is Victoria Guesthouse. The place has rooms with a bathroom and fan for 7000CFA (10.70 Euro) a night. It doesn’t have any internet as it had been advertised. Frustratingly, one person per room gets free breakfast, worth 700CFA, but you end up wanting more so this going without and hitting the streets for breakfast will probably still be better value. The staff are nice enough, although the bloke wasn’t too keen when he saw the small amount of washing we wanted him to do.

Getting a feed: For breakfast and snacks we can’t go past Mt Cameroon bakery right on the roundabout it’s probably the greatest bakery in Africa with all the sweets you would want. Even better for us was the array of savoury snacks in store which got us through the days.

Without doubt the place that stole the show was Cecile’s fish out the front of Futuris near the Mile 4 Junction in town. Neither of us can think of when we’ve ever had better fish in our lives. For a bit over a Euro you can pick out your freshly grilled fish, and get a plate with onion, sauce and fresh homemade pasta in banana leaves – absolutely delightful. What’s better there is a bar right behind here so you can do the beer and fish double no worries. To be totally honest, we don’t even like fish – seriously, it was that good.

Out on the town: Limbe has plenty of nightlife options, streetside bars pop up everywhere around Mile 4 Junction as the sun goes down. We went to Dreams Dance Bar for a few midweek drinks with background beats and some NBA. Just past the roundabout are a few more bars including Atlanta End and Bula which are noisy but have a good vibe for a few lazy ales.

Traveller Scene: We didn’t come across any other travellers. There were a few other expats around the town. It’s wet season so numbers would be down, we were the only occupants at our hotel.

Difficulties: The clouds of the wet season meant we didn’t don the hiking books and take on West Africa’s highest mountain – Mt. Cameroon. The views for filming wouldn’t have been great so we gave this giant a miss and our fitness level probably wouldn’t have gotten us to the first level you can do in a day. If you want to head to the top of West Africa and you’re here at the right time it’s definitely something that you should do in this area.

Learn from us: You can get internet around town for 300CFA (45 Euro Cents) an hour, this won’t be at speeds where you can get much done. If you need some real internet action then it’s worth forking out for 800CFA at Bifunde Internet Café. You can also connect your laptop to the network here.

Highlight: In 1999 Mt Cameroon erupted, evacuating nearby Buea and much of the surrounding area as lava spewed out and left a trail of volcanic destruction. Our moto driver mentioned how much money he made back then selling volcanic rock, an event still ingrained in the consciousness of locals. The stretch to the west of Limbe is littered with majestic beaches. Just before Mile 11 Beach you can see first hand the path of the lava, here there is a small eco-tourism spot where you can climb up and be struck by the impact of the flow on the surrounding landscape, turning jungle into a path down the mountain of volcanic rock and fresh shoots of growth.

@ Kribi
It has beaches galore, some great value street food and gatherings of locals by the beach every afternoon it’s Kribi and it’s worth a look. We hit it at the start of wet season so things were a bit quiet on the tourist scene but come summer it would be out of this world.

How did we get there: Coming from Limbe we had to go via Douala which is 1300CFA (2 Euro) in a mini bus for an hour and a half journey. You then will have to get a taxi across Douala, you’ll get hit up hard but try and not pay more than 1000CFA across town to Central Voyages. Central Voyages have the honour of being the first form of transport we’ve had in Africa to leave on time, an 11.30am departure meant an 11.30am departure. It cost 2000CFA for the 3 hour journey to Kribi.

Where did we stay: The cheapest place in town the Hotel Panoramique, right next to the market on top of the hill. It’s 6000CFA (9.50 Euro) pretty basic and while we were there their was no running water so it was bucket action. It’s like you’re stepping back in time to the old nursery thyme except neither of us are named Jack or Jill, there’s only a slight hill but you will have to fetch a pail of water.

Getting a feed: There a great street feeds here and for some amazing value. You can get a baguette with 2 eggs, some salami, a bit of vegetables for 350CFA (50 Euro cents) down on the beach or for slightly more on the main road.

Out on the town: The area just near the market has a number of good spots to get on it. We only had one beer at it, but you can’t go past a bar named Tunnel Action III. Down by the beach are also a number of places after about 8.30pm let us know. You’ll have no worries getting a good nights sleep here.

Traveller scene: The end of May is when the place moves into wet season, but there were still some tourists soaking up some last rays of sun. The Lobe Waterfalls was still swarming with touts and with local and foreign tourists getting a glimpse of this special site.

Learn from us: We are still working out drinking habits here. Most waterholes are packed during the late afternoon and early evening. They seem to clear out nearly completely between 8-9pm. Only to refill again come 11pm on a weekend evening. Locals do seem to like to get an early start.

Highlight: The Lobe Waterfalls are a pretty top spot. It is one of the few waterfalls in the world that fall straight into the ocean. After failed negotiations with moto drivers we managed to get a taxi driver to take us the 10km and wait for a bit under an hour for 4000CFA (6 Euro). The taxi option is probably best as it’s a pretty long trip along some bumpy roads. The Lobe Waterfalls are free to explore, with a bit of a beach where the river way meets the ocean. Touts will offer to take you upstream to see ‘Pygmies’, going to ‘see’ people seems bordering on exploitative so we gave that a miss. A quick trip on the Pirogue to get up close to some of the larger waterfalls would probably be worth the money.

@ Yaounde
It’s much more atmospheric than steamy Douala and there’s more happening here than slightly sleepy Kribi. Yaounde seems to get the balance right. We had to grab our Gabonese visa here and for this reason didn’t have our passports with us for a few days. As a result, we laid low for most of our time in Yaounde, but we can tell you every street food spot around Carrefour Nlongkak.

Yaounde is a pretty sweet city. It has a lot to offer for a traveller- cheap, plenty of places for cheap food, bars and a more relaxed atmosphere than many other African capitals. The temperature here is probably more to your liking, definitely a few degrees cooler than the sticky coast.

How did we get there: Frustration! We have no problem waiting for a sept-place or tro tro to fill, but frustration sets in when a company markets itself as having a ‘set’ schedule stuffs around and leaves two and half hours late. Don’t worry, they won’t let you know when it’s leaving so you’ll sit crammed in for the whole time, steaming up. These guys had assured us after we asked numerous times buses leave on the hour every hour – lying is just not cricket and nor is turning a 4 hour trip into an 8 hour day – for those reasons we can’t recommend Transcam. Travel with Kribienne Bus company instead. The prices are the same 3000CFA for a 4 hour trip.

Where did we stay: We went to the cheapest place in town the Foyer International – Presbyterian Church will has beds in dorm rooms for 3000CFA (4.50 Euro). This is still in a pretty good location, but the main problem as is often the case with this sort of accommodation is a 10pm curfew. We then moved down right on Carrefour Nlongkak to Ideal hotel, where the location does match the name. Basic rooms come for 8000CFA (12 Euro) with TV, fan, bathroom and small balcony. Everything revolves around the roundabout, all sorts of food, bars and plenty of transport right on your doorstop.

Getting a feed: You won’t have a shortage of options, if you get chicken just get it whole rather than hacked up as you can have a better idea of which bit you are eating. Our favourite place was a small place just off the roundabout next to Le Buffet where two Sudanese guys will be happy to speak English and go out of their way to get you whatever food you want. While they don’t have a great deal of food and didn’t know how long they’d be there, if you get a chance to talk about the issues they face as refugees it’ll blow your mind.

Back to the food and for the full assortment at the best price – the best feed you’ll find is in front of the pharmacy – look for the guys with the salad spread. For a 1000FCFA you’ll get a massive plate of salad, spaghetti with sauce and some baguette.

On the town: Again, it was all about Carrefour Nlongkak for us. There are plenty of streetside bars. The biggest one we went to is Complex Le Bunker which has all you could want really, outdoor seating, lounges, food, live music, TV’s and a nightclub. So you have plenty of options of where you want to take your night.

Difficulties: The biggest difficulty would have to be the battles we faced to watch Australian Sam Stosur take on the Italian Schiavone in the French Open Final at Roland Garros. We started first at a bar with no problems before station only dropped out mid match. We saw Stosur up 4-1 in the 2nd so we made the mad dash down to the Hilton Hotel. Yes, we were in the Hilton in the executive lounge where we can tell you the views were pretty special but as we know now for Australians the result wasn’t quite so.

Learn from us: Markets. Yes, we’ve seen many a market across West Africa but our budgets have meant for the most part we haven’t been part of the bartering. Head out around Mile 4 Junction, have a chat, look around and test out your negotiations skills to get decked out in a new pair of boots.

>>> The Amateur Low Down
Highlight: Limbe, its surrounding are and everything in it. Limbe, is where we got our groove back after a rough week in Nigeria. Limbe is lovely and relaxing during the day, but lively at night. The humidity may leave you sweating but you know the atmosphere is super cool.

Biggest Surprise: How we managed to beat the calls for bribes on 4 occasions at roadblocks on one day? We told the guys who wanted beers to let us through that it was their shout and we’ll give marks for creativity for the guy who asked for money for his equipment at the office. At the very last hurdle we thought we’d met our match, when one officer said he’d go inside and we could call Yaounde. Let’s say we called the bluff and said let’s go talk.

The phone call never happened, we reiterated the importance of receiving receipts to show our government back home and after 10 minutes we were back on the road and into Gabon. We earned the respect of the bus during the day when we answered zero to money paid. The hardest thing was hiding a smirk as you wait to see what way it’ll be asked for and how much patience you’ll need to move on without touching your pockets.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: At a street stand in Carrefour Nlongkak we met two Sudanese from Darfur who jumped at the chance to speak English. They spoke of the difficulties they faced crossing borders, dealing with locals who themselves have so little, their exams at school that would go missing or weren’t marked on occasions and the daily struggles that exist.

We’ve met a number of refugees, displaced persons and the stateless along our road in West Africa. Whether it’s Liberian refugee still living in Ghana, Zimbabweans in Togo or Sudanese in Cameroon the plight of displaced peoples is evident in many African countries. Some countries are both recipients of people seeking refuge and also the source of refugees, such is the complexity of the issues facing Africa.

Often people will talk about African refugees ’swarming’ our rich developed Western countries. Talking to refugees here is a reminder that issues cannot be simplified as ‘African’, but rather different situations in different parts of the continent need different humanitarian approaches. There are millions of untold stories of tragedy, unheard of atrocities that force people to flee their countries, divide families and break down community structures. You can break down barriers across borders with courageous desperate people whose quest for safety for themselves and their families have no barriers.

Nigeria, we don’t know what to say to you.

You are truly a beautiful country with lush landscapes, an economy booming on the back of oil production, but you make it difficult for us to like you and get to know you better. Your country is plagued by corruption, negative environmental and social consequences of this oil industry and as a tourist you feel you are in a constant battle to avoid being ripped off.

Nigeria, a country where you can get nearly anything (for a price), it’s definitely a destination that gives you many things you won’t get in other countries in Africa and it’s for the adventurous.

Nigeria
Capital: Abuja
Population: 150 million
Economy: GDP (PPP) – $315 401bill – 37th; GDP Per Capita (PPP) – $2400 – 145th
Human Development Index: .511- 158th
Sporting Trivia: The Nigerian Super Eagles attained their highest FIFA ranking in 1994 when they rose to 5th place. This year they also made their first World Cup appearance.

>>> Traveller Info
You’ve earnt your stripes if you make into and out of Nigeria. When you talk to other travellers and locals they are normally nothing but excited when you describe your upcoming overland adventures. That is until you mention the N word – Nigieria and this excitement turns to horror stories and pleads to avoid it. As usual, we wanted to prove it wrong. That proved difficult.

This place will try hard to break you – please stay strong and beat it.

Visa Requirements: We teed ours up in Accra (Ghana), as it is meant to be one of the smoothest places to get it. It cost $50USD, along with a bunch of documentation. You need photocopy pictures, travel insurance information, photocopy of your Ghanaian visa, photocopy of Yellow Fever vaccination, onward travel details (we made up own timetable – thanks MS Word), hotel reservations (you can dodgy this up by just printing up the screen for a hotel before you actually book anything). A brief mention of the World Cup didn’t go astray. We got our visa within 48 hours.

You’ll need to play it smoothly with the security guards there as well, they’ll want your numbers and gifts and they’ll want to take them back to your country. It was pretty random – thank you nervous laughter.

Some of the officials didn’t like that we did not get the Visa in our country of residence, so if you can get it wherever you are living then that’ll avoid some hassles with officials once you are in Nigeria. The embassy itself did not raise this as a problem.

Parlez-vous Francais? 85%. It’s English speaking and that means at least one less thing to worry about. Sometimes you’ll have to explain things twice, but the languages barriers are minimal and you can get your message across when you need to.

>>> @ Lagos
A giant of Africa, a true mega city, 6000 people move to Lagos every week. The economic hub of Nigeria, and a place after a long, frustrating day entering Nigeria that we were quick to get out of.

How did we get there: We battled to put it simply. An absolute struggle once we got about 1km into Nigeria. You can get a shared taxi to the border from Cotonou (Benin) for 1000CFA, we wanted to get moving so just paid to have the taxi 6000CFA (9.20 Euro). Then a couple of moto’s took us to the border, we don’t recommend this considering the time you have to wait at the border sorting out stuff and then when you are done demand an exorbitant amount for driving you about 500m – we eventually got it for 400N (2.20 Euro). Then the taxi to Lagos was 1000N (5 Euro) which is a 90 minute journey.

That’s just the beginning though, to get to Lagos Island, which admittedly is right across this sprawling city, our driver took us for 3000N (15 Euro) each. You can get a taxi cheaper, but after the frustrations of the day we didn’t want to stuff around again finding and negotiating another lift.

Where did we stay: Ritz Hotel, names can be misleading, no we didn’t splash out on a flash place by any stretch of the imagination. This place on Lagos Island has very basic rooms with a tv, fan from 3000N, we went for a slightly better model for 4000N (21 Euro). By slightly better we mean the room’s wash basin wasn’t smashed in, the air con was falling through the window and the bath tub was stained brown – oh actually yes it was.

Getting a feed: This is the one thing we still found cheap in Lagos, street food. You can get small meat pies for 150N (80 Euro cents). Best of all as always is meat, beans and rice mix for 300N (1.50 Euro).

Out on the town: Next question. We had struggled all day so once we had eaten we ventured back to the hotel. If you have some cash to burn Lagos has some massive nightclubs where you can do your thing with a sizeable expat community. Our night was spent watching Nigerian news, Nollywood and Miss Nigeria contestants.

Difficulties: Numerous. Let’s move on, when we work out how best to put it – we’ll let you know.

Learn from us: Lagos Island is a fair bit more relaxed than the other parts of Lagos we saw, but still busy. Maybe you’ll settle in to the hectic pace better than us, our introduction to Nigeria was like nothing else we’ve come across in Africa. Give yourself at least an hour to get anywhere if you’re crossing town.

>>> @ Calabar
The capital of Cross River State, also referred to as the environment state, it is clear that the local governments have done a lot to enhance their environmental credibility in recent years. Interestingly also, moto’s are no longer an option to get around Calabar, they have been banned as a form of shared transport and replaced with the safer option of blue taxi’s now plying the main routes. Calabar certainly is a pretty cool city, and if you happen to spend a night at its port before grabbing a ferry you’ll have a blast.

How did we get there: Escaping from Lagos we got an early morning bus with ABC Transport. We booked the afternoon before at a booking office of theirs located in a shoe shop in Falomo Shopping Centre on Lagos Island. Unknowingly, we got their ‘Sprinter’ service which is in effect a mini van that just doesn’t stop anywhere, this cost 4750 (24 Euro) and still took us more than 12 hours. The normal buses are a bit over 3000N and stop along the way so to hazard a guess it’d be closer to a 15 hour hike.

Note: You really should travel in chartered transport with legitimate companies like ABC – they aren’t stopped at any of the hundred or so checkpoints. In Nigeria if you aren’t stopped you’re not going to be stitched up.

Where did we stay: We went to Nelbee Executive Guesthouse, just near the Watt Market, where we got a pretty nice room with air-con, bathroom and tv for 3000N (15 Euro) per person- this was after some negotiations as the room is normally 8500N. This was a bit too much for our budgets, so we moved across town to Jahas Guesthouse, in a much more chilled area and the more basic room came for a more chilled price of 1750N (8 Euro) each. This place is heavily reliant on a generator and during the day they ease up on the power so by about 9am the fan will likely die, so you’ll need to be a morning person and get out and explore.

Getting a feed: You’ll find packet noodles with a twist everywhere. The cook will throw together 2 packets of noodles, an egg, some onion and peppers for 200N (1 Euro) and that’ll keep you going. We funded our trip by eating 2 minute noodles so naturally we lived off them here.

Out on the town: You can’t miss watching the UEFA Champions League final in Africa so we went to Genny’s which was packed out for the event. The best local beer is Gulders which you can get for 350N (1.70), but our beer of choice is Guinness Smooth for 250N. There are many bars around Jahas Guesthouse which are all worth a look.

Difficulties: Don’t really worry too much if you don’t have great information about the ferry to Limbe. Just head down to the port while there is still light on a Monday or Thursday afternoon, find out more about the departures the next morning (Tuesday or Friday) and either spend the night hanging around the port along with hundreds of other people or find some cheap accommodation nearby.

Learn from us: We searched high and low for a decent net connection. We eventually succeeded after some local advice at the Channel View Hotel which has both wireless options (although we couldn’t connect with our laptops) and a reliable net café. We had trouble connecting to wireless at a number of hotels around town.

>>> The Amateur Low Down

Highlight: Our final night in Nigeria filled with noodles, port-side beers and meeting people for the first time from Sao Tome & Principe. The atmosphere was pretty electric, a surreal experience of camping out on the docks till dawn. The ferry to Cameroon takes off early in the morning from the port, so everybody rocks up the night before.

We slept for a couple of hours in the ferry company office, there’s a first time for everything right? There are plenty of people around and if you are up for it you can power through until the 6am ferry with a few beers with some of the more hardcore locals. A tip though, the rough ferry ride might mean a night on the beers wouldn’t sit too well. Regardless it’s a great way to say aidios to Nigeria and gear yourself up for Cameroon.

Biggest surprise: The cost of Nigeria. It was like nothing we’d come across during the trip so far. Locals insisted it was because we weren’t with somebody, this may be the case but we hadn’t been ’with’ somebody in any country beforehand. Even listed set prices were far greater than what we had seen in the previous 10 African countries. Food was the standout as still being affordable, but whether it was transport or accommodation you have to try pretty hard to reduce your expenses here. Otherwise, like us you’ll see your balance soon has a Nigerian sized hole in it.

Nollywood! We have to also mention this.
Yep – you got it – it’s the Nigerian version of Hollywood only to a foreigner like us far more hilarious. It’s a massive industry and you’ll find Nollywood films across West Africa. I wouldn’t want to spoil the plot of any movie in particular, but basically there are only a few stories lines played out in hundreds of films.

Without doubt our favourite would have to be husband and wife – husband eventually cheats – terrible things happen – someone dies – a lot of yelling and screaming occurs – then they reunite and swear by god they’ll never do it again. Opps, we’ve already said too much.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: In the backstreets of Calabar, not far from Genny’s and Jahas Guesthouse, follow the dirt roads around to the left and you stumble across some of Africa’s most endangered primates in a wonderful wildlife centre.

The Calabar Drill Ranch, is one part of a conservation effort being run by the NGO – Pandrillus. We got our zoology lessons about the habits of the colony of Drill Monkeys here, the threat that they are under from the bush meat trade and what is being done here to help these endangered animals to keep going.

We took our camera and headed along. Here’s the full story.

Words that start with B – Big, bold and brash – Thankfully Benin is none of these and you’ll find it amongst words like brilliant and beautiful and it’ll probably blow you away.

Benin
Capital: Porto Novo
Population: 7 million
Economy: GDP (PPP) – $13, 014 billion – 133rd; GDP Per Capita – $1468 – 165th
Human Development Index: .492 – 161st
Sporting Trivia: Benin are grouped with heavyweights Cote D’Ivoire, along with Rwanda and Burundi for qualifications for the 2012 African Cup of Nations.

>>> The Traveller Scene
Benin, known as the home of voodoo, but even more for us it was the home of the greatest selection of street food we’ve come across. Moving beyond our stomach, it‘s no mystery why Benin has such a good reputation. Whether it’s the strangely calm and chaotic scenes of Cotonou or because it’s home to some of West Africa’s best wildlife parks in the north – it’s not only shaped like a chicken drumstick but it’s a chicken drumstick with all the herbs and spices.

Entry Requirements: At the Benin border you can pick up a 2 day transit visa for 10 000CFA (15 Euro). Unless you’re just passing through the south this won’t be enough, you can get it extended by a month for another 12 000CFA in Cotonou if you want to see more of this amazing country.

Parlez-Vous Francais? Our 2nd last solely Francophone country, Benin, like Togo, has numerous English speakers if you’re in a bind. People appreciate the effort of speaking French and a few lines of the local tongue wouldn’t go astray if you’re staying more than a few days.

>>> @ Cotonou & Ouidah
Cotonou, yellow shirt wearing moto drivers are the most common site on the streets. They’re hectic but pound the pavement and you’ll find out what this place is all about. Just 40km away is the historic city of Ouidah which once was the point of departure for millions of slaves from the region once dubbed ‘Slave Coast‘. It also happens to be home to some of the most significant spots for voodoo traditions, including the Sacred Forest and the Temple of the Pythons.

How did we get there: We arrived via a shared taxi from Lome, which took us around 3 hours, including the border crossing. A shared taxi should set you back 4000CFA (6 Euro), you march across the border crossing yourself and meet the taxi on the other side. Your larger backpack will get checked by customs whilst you aren’t with the car, so make sure any valuables are with you.

Where did we stay: Maison de Passage De Allemands, its in the Haie Vive area, a few hundred metres from the roundabout. Throw in a few lines of German here if you can if you want to fit in, this place was set up to host German aid workers on the move. It’s secure, simple and decent enough for a few nights. This area is has a bit of buzz with plenty of good street bars and internet cafes within a few minutes walk. If you’re after some local beats to take with you, drop into the net cafe across the road in the restaurant, slip the local lad a few CFA and you’re away. Back to the accommodation – we got a room with 2 double beds for 10000CFA (15 Euro) a night.

Getting a feed: Amazing. Cotonou is perhaps street food heaven. Trust us – we’ve eaten our fair of food from the street. If you’ve been in other African cities where the street food is great, albeit with limited variety, then Cotonou is a chance to give your tastebuds a tickle. How about thick avocado with onion, sausage and sauce on a baguette (400CFA), or a plate full of vegetabes, spaghetti and sauce (300CFA)? For those playing at home, both are lucky to cost you a dollar.

Out on the Town: As good as Castel or Flag might be, it’s time to shift gears and get on board the Beer Beninoise. The local stuff is pretty tasty, and for 400CFA (75 Euro Cents) it’s hard to say no to a third and fouth. Cotonou has numerous street side bars, where plastic chairs get rolled out as the sun is coming down for a night of relaxed beers to the tune of some great African beats. It’s one of the best things around with music blaring a the best seats in the house for some top notch people watching with the Beninoise – good luck finding anyone walking past who doesn’t stop for a bit of a boogy as they pass by.

Difficulties: We made the journey out to Ouidah from Cotonou with a shared taxi for 650CFA (1 Euro) to learn more about the mysteries of voodoo. Clearly we’re no Holmes and Watson – it still remains a mystery despite a guided ‘Franglais’ tour through the Sacred Forest and having pythons drapped around our necks at the temple.

The Temple of Pythons is 1000CFA entry and 2000CFA for a camera. It’s overall an awkward experience. The Sacred Forest is 1000CFA, 2000CFA per camera and we gave our bloke 1000CFA for guiding us through. It would be incredible during the Voodoo festival and it’s only recently been opened up to outsiders.

As mentioned above Ouidah was also the scene where around 12 million slaves were sent away from their communities to all over the world, this important historical cite – the Rue des Esclaves – is worth checking out, along with the town’s museum to gain a better understanding of the impact of the slave trade.

Learn from us: Benin boasts some impressive wildlife in its northern national parks. Pendjari and Du W are something you should do if you have a bit of time in Benin. It is something we definitely had on the cards at the beginning of our adventure, although not expensive by East African standards the trip up there, the guide, the need for a car, coming in at the end of season, and a matter of time all made this something we had to cut out of our adventure. Locals and tourists rate these places highly, but we’d love to hear from anybody who has made it up there on their experiences to make the Amateur guide complete.

>>> The Amateur Low Down

Highlight: Sitting at one of Cotonou’s streetside bars having an honest conversation with locals in a democracy about the issues facing Benin. It was truly inspiring to hear about their work, discuss the challenges they face, but most refreshingly was the optimism about Africa’s future and pride in what they have.

Biggest Surprise: Our day in the ‘home’ of voodoo didn’t lead to any real answers about voodoo. The mystery remains as to these animist traditions. The Sacred Forest and the Temple of Pythons didn’t unravel any mysteries for us. Rather it left us with more questions, the best way to gain a better understanding of this culture would be to try and coincide your visit with a festival.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: African communities face an uncertain future due to the impacts of climate change on their livelihoods. Young Volunteers for the Environment is a group that is taking the lead in engaging with local African communities in tackling the biggest environmental issues the area faces.

We were lucky enough to meet some people who work with another organisation, Junior Chamber International which helps young people build partnerships in their community, one of the key projects being teaching young people skills for social entrepreneurship so that they can build sustainable businesses and create opportunities to be leaders in their communities.

It might only look small on a map but underestimate Togo at your own peril. The nightlife, the best beaches and amazing eats – this is every thing you need to know about Togo to go.

Togo
Capital: Lome
Population: 5.2 million
Economy: GDP $5368 billion – 148th, GDP Per Capita – $826 – 173rd
Human Development Index: .499 – 159th
Sport Trivia: Earlier this year tragedy struck the Togolese football team on their way to the African Cup of Nations in Angola when their team bus was fired upon by rebel groups in Angola’s Cabinda region. The team subsequently withdrew from the tournament, in mourning of the event and the death of the team’s reserve goalkeeper. Shockingly, the team was barred from all African football tournaments for 4 years, penalising Togo players and fans for this tragic event. You might not know much about Togo, but if you know football you know Manchester City’s Emmanuael Adebayor.

Adebayor announced his retirement from international football following Togo’s suspension, but hinted that he may be persuaded to return if the ban was uplifted. Following his couragous action, public support and a broader campaign to overturn this suspension, the authorities have announced Togo will be eligible to play in African tournaments and no penalty will be served. Here’s the full story.

>>> Traveller Info
With a coastline just 50km wide, it’s possible to snooze your way through Togo, but hanging around for the coastline and the rest of the country that lies within is a must. Togo can turn it on with cheap eats, local nightly beats and more motos than you can imagine!

Visa Requirements: Coming from Ghana you could cross into Togo without even realising it at one of the most picturesque border crossings in the world. It’s just 50m from the waves crashing onto the golden sands. Togolese visas which last for 1 week are available at the border for 10 000CFA (15 Euro). You just need to give the details of a hotel in Togo and you’re good to go.

Parlez-vous Anglais? Being one of the countries nestled between the two Anglophone giants of West Africa- Ghana and Nigeria, make some basic English a lot more common amongst Togolese.

>>> @Lome

How did we get there: From Accra we grabbed a tro tro (shared mini bus) to Aflao at the border for 8C (4 Euro), including baggage for the 4 hour journey. The border crossing is relatively pain free, but once you pass through the Togolese side you’re basically in Lome, so a taxi into town shouldn’t set you back more than 1000CFA or cheaper on one of the many waiting moto’s.

Where did we stay: Hotel Le Galion. This place is found in a nice quiet area, close to the Presidential Palace. You can get a room for around 7000CFA for a double room with a shower. The best thing about this place is definitely the free wireless internet which brings in many people to the downstairs bar and restaurant.

Getting a feed: For value as always there is a fair bit of street food along the beach strip but for the best food head to the concentration along the bar strip in town. For some disbelieving laughs though head to the single arch, Aldonalds for a cheesey burger and a cheesey snap or two.

Out on the Town: Lome has much to offer in terms of nightlife. There are many street bars, the African cultural centre for some pumping live music almost every night and there are a host of swanky bars littered around. For a big night out don’t miss Le Villa. You’d be forgiven for thinking you were in a stylish location in any western city at an exclusive cocktail bar but it’s one of the best places we’ve found in West Africa for electro beats and modern music. We’ll also admit, there’s something a little bit special about sinking shots with UN officials and dancing with members of an EU delegation.

Difficulties: The biggest difficulty is comprehending how such a beautiful city in a magic location has so many people struggling to meet their most basic of needs. Togo has one of the lowest per capita income levels in this part of Africa and has been ruled by one family, the Eyadema’s since the middle of the 1960’s. Make of that what you will…

Learn from us: Our taxi driver took us to a place to get private taxi’s to Cotonou rather than the shared taxi’s. Be clear about where you are going and what you want. The shared taxi’s leave from a place just near the Grand Market on the main street on the beach. They might be surprised that you want to ride with the locals or they might just want to shake your wallet for a few extra dollars – the shared taxis will save you a mint.

>>> The Amateur Low Down
We won’t lie – we loved Lome. It’s a snapshot of a lifestyle where money is mixed between shanty huts crammed full of people in the markets. If you want something you can find it here. There are places which are incredible and there are places which are incomprehensible. Lome could be so much more and we hope one day it’s potential is realised.

Highlight: Just next to Lome’s port is a beachside getaway at Cristal Plage where deckchairs, beachside pools and windsurfing replace the hustle and bustle of the rest of Lome’s beach strip. Entry costs 2000CFA (3 Euro), definitely good value for a day under the sun and to experience West African luxury. The getaway is a few km from the road and there have been robberies by machete wielders on the dirt track, so even with a big group get your taxi to take you all the way in or try and snare a lift at least to the road on the way back.

Biggest surprise: Realising how much it costs to jump on the back of one of the many moto’s cruising around Lome. The guys aren’t marked, just hail somebody and get on board to get you around town for about 200CFA (30 Euro cents). It’s good fun, maybe even slightly more fun on your way home from a night out after a few drinks with the wind in your hair trying to crack a basic conversation in French.

On a side note – A night out with UN officials is pretty sweet.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier: Currently docked in Lome, working with the people of Africa is the Africa Mercy, run by the crew at Mercy Ships. It’s the world’s largest NGO hospital boat, with 450 people on board, working on numerous projects but predominately focusing on providing medical assistance to local communities. Just as importantly they are training local medical practitioners to ensure upon departure essential basic medical services can continue to be delivered to the Togolese.

We were lucky enough to get a tour of the ship and gain a better understanding of the amazing work the ship does in changing and giving people life. You can support their work here and find out about getting involved, check out our take on things

Bash away on bongos, swing in hammocks, rave the nights with reggae, bake on the beaches, suss out the slave trade centres and feel the football fever – Ghana’s got it all.

See for yourself – Ghana as we saw it.

Ghana
Capital: Accra
Population: 23.3 million
Economy: GDP- $35 Billion (95th), GDP Per Capita $1.551 (151st)
Human Development Index: .526 (152nd)
Currency: 1 Euro: 1.88 Cedi (CD)
Sporting Trivia: We can’t go past talking about the Black Stars, the Ghanaian football team. The Black Stars are one of Australia’s opponents at the World Cup. We haven’t missed a chance to talk football with Ghanaians, and of course throw in a bit of friendly banter. We’ll be seeing them when we go to the game on June 19th.

>>> The Traveller Scene
Want to spend a few weeks in a chilled out country? Then Ghana is a good place to recharge the batteries, speak some English and experience the big G. Whether it’s getting a better understanding of the dark history of slavery at one of the many castles along the coast, downing a cocktail at a beachside bar or walking with the wildlife of Mole National Park or feeling the beat beneath your feet, there is something for everyone in Ghana.

Parlez-Vous Francais? 90% – most locals have a good command of English. Although as is often the case, this is heavily reliant on level of education and in many instances a gender disparity is evident.

Visa/Entry Requirements: You must get your Visa in advance. We arranged ours in Ouagadougou (Burkina Faso), it took 24 hours and cost 17500CFA (25 Euro). It was a pretty pain free process, just bring along 4 passport photos. At the border you’ll probably also be asked to show your yellow vaccination card.

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>>> @ Kumasi
Home of the Ashanti Kingdom, Kumasi, rich in history and culture has a bit to offer, but you’ll find it hard to find. We were only there for half a day and we were keen to move on. Kumasi boasts the Kejetia Market- West Africa’s largest, and also the Manhyia Palace Musuem, home of the still influential Ashanti King. It’s well known you can even meet him if you take a bottle of liquor up to the palace.

Where did we stay? Guestline Hostel – It’s right near the STC bus station so it’s pretty handy in that regard, the net was down when we were there and a bed in the dorm room will set you back 8CD (4 Euro) a night.

How did we get there? From Ouagadougou we jumped aboard the TCV Sunday morning service to Kumasi 10000CFA (15 Euro). The best thing is probably the free brekky roll on boarding, but you’ll feel left out missing most of the jokes on the TV in the bus if your French skills are as non-existent as ours. Overall, it’s a pretty smooth 13 hour journey.

Getting a feed: Our first day in Ghana so we couldn’t go past the egg sandwichs street side – 1Cedi (50 euro cents), straight away the conversion from the baguette to the trusty toasties was evident.

Difficulties: We struggled across town to the Manhyia Palace Museum, but no cameras are allowed which makes it hard when you are trying to run a website with videos and pictures, albeit with shoddy equipment.

Learn from us: We’d recommend just heading to STC Bus station to get to Accra, things are much more orderly then the chaos at the ‘luxury’ bus station. Although, we still took off an hour and a half after scheduled, but that’s Ghana and ‘Africa Time’.

>>> @ Accra
The Ghanaian capital, bustling with traffic and hawkers and brimming with beaches, bars and reggae. It’s hard not to have a soft spot for Accra. There’s an abundance of watering holes, Independence monuments, streed food stalls and volunteers and it’s an ideal spot to take care of any administrative tasks.

How did we get there: We came into Accra twice. On the first occasion it was an STC bus from Kumasi which takes about 5 hours 7C (3.50 Euro) – although it took off about 2 hours late. Coming back to the city again was from Kokrobite where we shared a taxi with some Germans for 25C (13 Euro).

Where did we stay: Awet Hotel – Osu, a nice, professionally run hotel at the end of Oxford Street in the Osu district in Accra. Awet Hotel was good enough to support us during our stay, so if you want to kick back for a few days in luxury then Awet is a good bet. You can also get a room at the Salvation Army, also in Osu for 6C (3 Euro) which is extremely basic and with a curfew they didn’t particularly appreciate us coming back at 2am.

The Traveller Scene: There are a fair few tourists all around Accra, some people just on holidays but the biggest groups are one of the many volunteers who are on short breaks. You’ll find a number of bars full of expats, also there is a sizeable foreign student population studying here so you can find them at any of the cheap bars around town during the week.

Getting a feed: Accra comes armed with street food of all descriptions. So just head out for a walk and let your senses guide you. We found probably our favourite place on our last night in Accra which you can get a full plate of salad, some pasta and meat for 3C (1.50 Euro).

Out on the Town: There are plenty of places around Accra. We spent most of our time in the district of Osu, where you can find plenty of spots, including Ryan’s and Duplex. If you are up for some drinks on the beach head to the eastern end of Accra to Lombadi Beach where you kick back and on a Wednesday and feel the reggae rhythm.

What takes the cake for us though here in Accra is the street side bars, Lissie’s to be precise along Oxford Street. Here you can grab local gin in a 50ml satchel for 30pesewas (15 Euro cents) along with whatever mixers take your fancy. Maybe, the cheapest alcohol we’ve ever come across.

>>> @ Cape Coast
Cape Coast sits about 3 hrs drive from Accra. This is one of those towns that still retains the colonial feel in its architecture and atmosphere. Cape Coast moves at a slower pace than Accra, but its definitely not a place to speed past. Historically, the Cape Coast Castle one the scene of unimaginable suffering for millions of slaves before they were sent off as part of a thriving slave trade that once existed but will never be forgotten.

How did we get here: We came back from Akiwidaa Beach we shared a taxi, again with some Germans, back to Takoradi for 30C (15 Euro). From Takoradi a tro tro to Cape Coast, about an hour journey will cost 2C (1 Euro).

Where did we stay: Sammo’s Guesthouse – A bit expensive by Ghanaian standards, we got the only room left with TV and ensuite. 12.50C (7 Euro) a night, but it did the trick. One thing that stands out here are the staff. We could tell the lady is a bundle of fun, we’d just never want to play hide and seek with her. If she hides as well as she hides a smile – the game would go on forever.

Getting a feed: Our favourite place had to be School boy’s, which sells rice, fried chicken and the ‘School boy special sauce’. We know, it might sound suss but it’s seriously good. A few pieces of chicken with a bit of rice will set you back 2-3C (1-1.50 Euro).

Out on the Town: The best place in town would have to be the beachside bar at Oasis Resort. As the night goes on head towards town to find a lot of places. Our night was cut short by a power outage so we can’t comment too much on how big the party gets.

Learn from us: We struggled to find a good net connection here for a couple of days. We stumbled across Jet Internet café and it was by far the best in town despite the competition at Oceanview stating otherwise.

>>> @ Akwidaa Beach
A spectacular spot right on a secluded beach, it’s a place to soak up a few rays of sun with people from all over the world. The waves are pretty decent, so for us it felt like being back on an Australian beach. Head into the sun but don’t forget to slip, slop, slap, or find a spot in the shade and laze the day away in this special part of Ghana.

Getting There – From Accra we jumped on an STC bus to Takoradi 4 hours away. From there you can get on a Tro-tro (shared mini-bus) to Agona junction, change and get one to Akwidaa village, which will only cost you a few C for each leg.

If you’re like us, there will be a taxi driving at Takoradi asking to take us. So if there is a group of you it’s probably worth it to save 2 changes on the Tro Tro. This will cost between than 20-30C, although it takes longer than expected 45 minutes or so along some pretty terrible roads.

Where did we stay: Great Turtle Beach Lodge – This place has a big rap with anybody you talk to and it’s definitely justified. Set on an absolutely idyllic beach, kilometres away from the next village. There are private rooms, dorms, and the option we decided on, camping for 5C (2.50 Euro) a night.

Getting a feed: Finding cheap food is a bit of a dilemna here as the village is a good 20-30 min walk if you want to avoid paying at the restaurant. The feeds at the restaurant are of a pretty good size for 10C (5 Euro). In the village the food is cheap, the options limited, plenty of fresh fish and of course fufu. If you have no skills like us – don’t forget to take a fork. Eating hot fufu with your fingers is tough although it’ll break the ice with locals who’ll gather round for a laugh.

Out on the Town: As the sun comes down its time to put the feet up. Happy Hour from 5pm-7pm is all the encouragement you need to make an early start on some reduced priced cocktails. The rest of the night a steady stream of Star beer will keep you going – large 2.50C (1.25 Euro).

Difficulties: We wouldn’t recommend a walk to the village in the middle of the day. It’s when totally baked on the half hour walk and we were sweaty messes trying to eat the local Fufu.

Learn from us: You have to set up a tab and just pay everything at the end. Just keep a track of what you’re having to make sure it matches what you had. Particularly about what you bought during happy hour. They definately ripped us hard – happy hour wasn’t so happy afterall.

Ok, so there’s a lot to do in Ghana and this article is long. Why not break it up and check out the video we filmed on a day trip to Keta.

>>> @ Kokrobite
If you’re in Accra and need a quick beachside break then Kokrobite is for you. Kokrobite beach is full of fishing ships and the waves littered with plastic bags, but it’s still a place where you can go for a quick dip.

Getting There: We came from Cape Coast on a tro tro, just get one for Accra 4CD (2 Euro), but jump off at the Kokrobite intersection off the highway. It’s right before a toll booth, it’s about 20km from Accra. From the intersection we secured a taxi for 5CD (2.50 Euro) the 10km or so to Milly’s.

Where did we stay: Big Milly’s Backyard- A pretty cool place right on the beach under an hour from Accra. The place has a beach bar, there’s plenty of Rasta’s around and reasonable waves. We stayed in the shared lofts for 5CD (2.50 Euro) a night which are equipped with mosquito nets and lockers for your gear.

The main problem here? You’ll see her around, it’s Milly herself. She’s running a tight ship and is on patrol all day. She’ll wave and smile but behind doors she’s ruining the party. Our advice is save this place for a Friday or Saturday night when the locals from Accra arrive to get the party started.

Getting a feed: There is a restaurant with plenty of options for all your meals, but for any value it’s only a 5 minute stroll into the village where you can find the normal street options for 1 or 2C. It’s also worthwhile making the journey up to the village to grab some pure water rather than buying the bottles.

Out on the Town: Milly’s has a pretty cool spot right in the middle of it with a bar. Although, you get the impression from the prices and lack of alcohol in stock that they don’t really want you to be up late. The only real value is local gin 50 pesewas (25 Euro cents) and whatever soft drinks you want to add 1.20CD (60 Euro cents). You’ll know what we mean if you make it there.

Learn from us: There are plenty of rastas around looking for a chat who’ll eventually ask if you want to buy any African musical instruments off them. They are generally good blokes so have a talk and see if you do want to take some drum lessons. Although at the pink house down the beach you can get proper classes.

>>> The Amateur Low Down

Come on – It’s Ghana, you’ve got to go. To feel the beat of the street check out our video!

Highlight: For the most important things, the highlight for us was probably the smooth process in getting a new Australian passport. Ghana as a total package was pretty impressive. The chance to catch a few waves in the Gulf of Guinea along golden beaches and just chilling out a bit more in Accra all added up to a great time for us.

Biggest Surprise: On the walk back from Cape Coast Castle, we came across a crowd of a few hundred people watching what we though was a game of basketball. We were startled when we got a glimpse ourselves to see a game of wheelchair basketball in full flight. The skills, the jerseys and the atmosphere was great.

Seeing well supported, organised sport for physically impaired people happening in West Africa, was one of the best shocks we’ve had this trip and was a demonstration of the sort of potential that people here possess and the steps being taken in breaking down some of the social stigmas surrounding disabilities.

One thing you can do to break down a barrier:
Keta Sandlanders FC – You’ve got to check out these guys in Ghana and we even filmed them in action!

Break down a barrier and support Keta Sandlanders Football club. This isn’t just a football club, it’s a progressive organisation with established programs ensuring all the players are training in various trades and skills. At Keta, they’re giving football hopefuls a chance to play the game they love on the field whilst giving them the skills they need to make a decent living into the future off it.

In keeping with sport, if you’re interested in Rugby and in the area, head to the beach behind Oasis at Cape coast and catch up with the guys below at Blessed Rugby Union Academy – they’re always looking for helpers.

To see all that we snapped head to our Ghanaian gallery.